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« November 2007 | Main | January 2008 »

Beer and Brats

Dara writes:
Wisconsin_beer_3

James and I spent Christmas in the snow and winds of Madison, Wisconsin with James's mother's side of the family. Every year, this family does a grab-bag of gifts, going on the premise of, if you bring one, you get one. It's a remarkably inexpensive and fun way to celebrate. This year, it was James's idea we do "consumables." We brought Greenmarket items.

The two things that made our grab-bag gifts were liverwurst from Flying Pigs farm in upstate New York, and Thunder Pickles from Katchkie Farm, also upstate. The pickles have a stunningly spicy, vinegary, and garlicky flavor. They don't crunch, but the taste lingers and beguiles. The Flying Pigs swine enjoy a good life under the care of Michael Yezzi and his wife, Jennifer Small, who are at the Union Square Market on Saturdays. We had to special order the pickles.

James's cousin from Milwaukee added Serbian cheese and meat pies to the grab bag. Another cousin from the South (Georgia) added pickled okra and lemon-artichoke spread. We were lucky enough to take home Wisconsin micro-brews and glasses from the Milwaukee brewery. Overall, the consumables idea was a good one.

Finally, it wouldn't be Wisconsin without bratwurst. James's uncle brought us to State Street Brats. State Street is the main campus drag. Of course, school was out, but we got a taste of the storied beer hall. Wanting to be virtuous, James and I ordered just brats--not in a basket with plain or spicy fries. The brat arrived swaddled in a chewy sourdough roll, wrapped in wax paper, and adorned with a pickle. We both ordered white brats, which were delish. I garnished mine with pickle relish, red onions, sauerkraut, ketchup, and mustard. I washed it all down with a Sunset Weisse beer. It was a fab, apricot-y, thick-but-not-heavy wheat garnished with an orange slice. It chased away the cold--and it was cold. More snow than I'd ever seen. And we basically flew in during a snow storm. Before we took off the pilot said, "Basically the whole flight will be bumpy." Superior!

But it was a superior Christmas!

Moms at Momofuku

Dara writes:

As readers of our blog know, James and I love David Chang's Momofuku Noodle Bar, in downtown Manhattan. We love it so much we decided to venture there, with our parents, for James's recent birthday.

We were excited to share our fave kimchee-laced brussels sprouts and sinfully rich ramen with our folks, but I guess we were in a bit of a bubble and failed to realize our parents might not want to crowd onto tiny stools for grub that doesn't quite fit in their comfort zone.

Our market research told us that on a weekend night we best arrive early. 5:20pm found us waiting outside the door, the first people there. The waitress who had told us "the line starts at 5pm" was a tad off the mark. No matter. What did matter was that my father had to arrive late, and, Momofuku being one of those "no reservations, we can't seat you until all members of your party are here" establishments, it gave us a tussle about our table. We had to insist we'd order for my father. The manager said that we could save a seat for him but that if the place filled up he'd have to give away that seat.

Now, Momofuku has grown very big in stature (and bigger in size, since it recently moved to a bigger space), which is great for it, but in the process it's gotten an entirely new staff. Not everyone is as mellow and cool (host with the wacky '80's haircut, I'm referring to you) as the old staff. And indeed, talking to this new manager was like being on the phone with Delta Airlines. There was no reasoning with him and he spit out dictates that didn't make sense in the context: to wit, our potentially having to cede my father's chair midway through the meal although we would have set the space and ordered food for him.

We made it to the table, though (as did my dad, about 30 min. later), and our mothers had to sit on their coats and wiggle into their stools. When the food came, they thought it was weird, but couldn't deny the tastiness of the kimchee and charred mackerel. The runny egg on top of the ramen frightened some at the table.

I think all in all we realized that while the dorm-room, guerilla theater elements of the restaurant thrill us, to our folks, it's a little shady. They dine out for comfort and ease, not necessarily to be challenged. And by the way, at around 6:30pm, there were still plenty of seats, although when we left at 7pm there was the proverbial "line out the door."

Wild Salmon to Close

Dara writes:

As I predicted right here in September, Jeffrey Chodorow's paean to the Pacific Northwest, Wild Salmon, will close at the end of this month.

I love salmon, but, as I said before, salmon is like chicken: in and of itself, it's boring. Therefore, the right stage for salmon is kind of a wild and crazy joint. And though Chodorow's place has "wild" in the title, it looked like a basement-level Sheraton conference room where one drinks Starbucks and nibbles on deli-sandwich quarters provided by Sodexho catering.

Good riddance, El Chod.

Holiday greetings 2007

December 2007

It was been a wonderful first year of marriage. But it did not start out so wonderful. On New Year's Eve, 2006, we received a call from the Block Island Police Department. James's dad, Carl, had been airlifted off of the Island and rushed to Rhode Island Hospital in Providence. The diagnosis: hemorrhagic stroke. James is Carl's health care proxy and power of attorney, so we spent much of the first half of 2007 attending to Carl's rehabilitation (two treatment centers) and eventual relocation (to a retirement community in Mystic, Connecticut).

It was a difficult winter. But about three months after the stroke, Carl started to show dramatic improvement. It wasn't luck: he worked hard at it. His balance returned and he began to walk--with a walker, a cane, and finally on his own. His speech also came back, a word at a time, finally full sentences, and with that came his smile and his sense of humor. Doctors on the scene put Carl's chance of recovery at 20 percent. But Carl beat the odds. His stroke is now a year behind us, and so this holiday season we honor his perseverance and strength. He did it! You can read our journal of Carl's recovery, as well as other family news, at our weblog supremefiction.com.

There's more good news. Dara landed a great new job. She is now an online editor at Commentary magazine, where she edits and writes for the magazine's blogs. Here is one of her recent postings. Commentary has an over 60-year history as an influential intellectual journal of politics and culture. Dara also continues to find time to work on her own writing; most recently a poem appeared in the New York Sun.

This year Dara also gained una sobrina, a niece, Olivia, who lives in Barcelona. Dara's brother Ricky and sister in law Monica have just opened their second Delishop store in Barcelona, where they sell gourmet food from around the world.

Speaking of food, in late May and early June we embarked on a foodie tour of Northern Italy, as a belated honeymoon. Highlights included: chicory and olive oil at Milan bistro Bebel's, canteen for the editors and writers of Italy's most important newspaper, Corriere della sera; local Piemonte specialties at the beautiful restaurant Guido on the site of the Slow Food University in Pollenzo; and a private tour of the Produttori di Barbaresco winery in the Langhe, to the south of Turin. Our trip ended on the Grand Canal in Venice, where Dara got to meet her screen idol, Robert De Niro. You can check out photos of our honeymoon here (and don't miss our other photo albums, including snapshots from our intrepid Labor Day hike near Mount Washington).

What has James been up to through all this? You can check out his latest material for The New Criterion through his TNC article archive, including his article for the December issue in which he takes to task the art criticism of Tom Wolfe. James has also been hitting the keyboard for a number of additional publications over the past several months. At Supremefiction you can read a collection of pieces he has written for The Wall Street Journal, The New York Sun, and Art & Antiques.

Meanwhile, we still live near Gramercy Park, where our routine includes regular trips to the Union Square Greenmarket with our old lady cart, and many evenings at the National Arts Club, where we continue to be members of the Literary Committee. In April, Dara organized a reading of young poets that was very well-received by Club members. Of course, we also still maintain our weblog Supremefiction.com. Market research has determined that the target audience of Supremefiction is our family and friends and a lovely woman named Sharon who we think lives in Texas. But hey, we're critics too, so Supremefiction is the place where we get to sound off on art, television, shopping, books, movies, and New York restaurants. Join us at Supremefiction.com

Finally, our cat Bosco, always one step ahead of us when it comes to what the kids are doing, has joined Facebook.com. Once Bosco was on board, we had to follow suit. So if you have been taken in by this latest fad, look us up! We're always looking for new "friends."

Dara Mandle and James Panero


'Comeback Kid'

ART & ANTIQUES
December 2007

Comeback Kid

The return of Thornton Willis reflects the enduring legacy of abstract painting.

by James Panero

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F. Scott Fitzgerald famously wrote, “There are no second acts in American lives.” However in the past few years, a painter by the name of Thornton Willis, born in 1936, has re-emerged from near-obscurity. Almost 40 years after his New York debut, and after a brief shot at fame in the 1970s as a post-Minimalist, Willis is now creating some of the boldest work of his life, with critically acclaimed back-to-back New York solo shows, at Elizabeth Harris Gallery in Chelsea and Sideshow Gallery in Williamsburg. In an era defined by market trends, Willis is that uncompromising artist who still manages to rise above public taste.

“I was always an abstract painter,” he recently told me. “I’ve always done what feels right.” Willis is one of my favorite artists to visit in the studio. I spoke with him in his unadorned SoHo loft, among canvases propped against the walls, in the same neighborhood where he has lived and painted since the late 1960s. Here Willis is an original artist-resident, someone who has painted his way through the neighborhood’s transformation from industrial wasteland to multi-million-dollar residential enclave.

“I hardly think when I paint; I’m feeling,” says Willis. Seeing abstract art for the first time in the 1950s, he continues, “was like a punch in the face, a punch in the gut. A boom! Something fundamental to the human condition. I didn’t know what painting was before that. Seeing that work was the epiphany that brought me to painting. I’ve been chasing that ever since.”

Willis’s chase began in Pensacola, Florida. His family roots go back to rural Virginia and Georgia. His father was a Church of Christ minister, an evangelical who established congregations throughout the South. When his mother fell ill, Willis went to live with his grandparents. He was 7. “I always liked to draw. When I was 4 years old, my dad used to sit me on his lap and read the Sunday comics to me. They were in color. I was fascinated with the boxes, the color.”

Willis began in architecture school at Auburn University in Alabama. There he caught two traveling exhibitions: One featured the students of Hans Hofmann, the legendary painter and teacher of the Abstract Expressionists, and the other was a show of New York School painters brought by the American Federation of Arts. “Seeing those paintings spoke to me. It hit me on the head,” Willis recalls. He decided to become a painter, transferring to the University of Southern Mississippi to pursue abstract painting under the G.I. Bill. He then enrolled in graduate school at the University of Alabama in Tuscaloosa to study with Melville Price, an abstract artist from the 10th Street years who died in 1970 at the age of 49. In a recent interview with myartspace.com, Willis said, “From Mel I learned that the idea was to ‘live the work.’ To ‘be in’ the painting and to see the work as an extension of one’s self.” The life of the artist does not always fit into one’s assumptions about art history. By the time Willis arrived at abstract painting, Pop Art and Minimalism were in their heyday. “I see myself as having rejected those two possibilities,” he says. “Minimalism was reductive. I could not work that way. I need to act out on a painting. I need to work through accident.”

Willis moved to New York in 1967, a time when painters were starting to challenge the confines of Minimal art and experiment again with improvisation. “It was when Brice Marden and Richard Serra and Bob Ryman and Sean Scully began,” he recalls. “Alan Saret and Gordon Matta-Clark and Lynda Benglis were finding new ways of making art: Serra tossing lead into the corners; or Saret working with chicken wire. It was sometimes referred to as the ‘fold and pleat’ movement. My work was taking the same cues.”

In the 1970s and early ’80s, through experiments with lines and voids, Willis developed a signature style that brought him international attention. He called it “the wedge.” Predicated on the relationship between figure and ground, a tension that Willis built up in his edging and color choice, these haunting images could resemble a curtain or a mountain peak, a threshold or a monolith. Wedges such as “Bisby” (1977) found an eager market. Collectors and dealers ranging from Larry Gagosian to Charles Saatchi to Sidney Janis to Jackie Onassis (who called Willis “Maestro”) scrambled to the studio and galleries to buy them.

At the time, Serra advised, “Just keep doing the same thing, Thornton. Just keep doing the same thing,” Willis recalls. But at the height of his fame, Willis felt he had exhausted his motif. He abandoned the wedge. He gave up figure-ground paintings. With work in the Museum of Modern Art, the Whitney and the Guggenheim, he in fact gave up painting entirely.

When Willis returned to painting in the late 1980s, his market had moved on. But Willis brought with him a new focus on Cubism and new interests. “I was reading about quantum physics, how everything is absolutely saturated with matter. With the figure-ground paintings there was the idea of negative-positive space. But in quantum physics I realized that everything is filled. There is no such thing as negative space. This influenced my own thinking about painted space. My paintings became areas of energy bouncing off each other. Cubism seemed to have that in it already.” Triangles and facets filled his canvases. Work such as “Gray Harmony” (1993) featured regimented designs of quiet beauty. Then came 9/11, and that changed everything. “The first plane went right over our house. I said, ‘That plane was really low.’ I listened. Kept listening. Then I heard something go ‘snap’ and I went to the fire escape. All day, refugees were streaming up the street. People crying. People covered in soot and ash. I went out onto the street and watched the towers come down.”

In shock, Willis did not work for six weeks. Then one morning he got on the other side of it. “I just started to draw,” he says. In three hours, he created his first painting after the attacks: In “Cubist Painting for Vered” (2001), a work dedicated to his wife, Willis did away with measured construction. “I realized the world was taking a major change, with more uncertainty.” Drips ran down the front; the painting wept.

A new urgency now fills his compositions, a tension between the structures of Cubism and the gestures of Abstract Expressionism. He says he struggles with these recent paintings. Edgy, bending and sticking out into our space, they are animated by a career in abstraction. The art critic for The New Republic, Jed Perl, has called them “wonderfully persuasive” and suggestive of “an emotional terrain at once rambunctious and saturnine ... Although Willis was always a powerful painter, he seems to me to be a far more inviting artist now.”

The life of Thornton Willis is a testament to the fact that an artist at any age, in any style, can produce remarkable work. He has been chasing abstraction for 40 years, and now, once again, the art world is starting to chase him.